Airy traces: the message of lightness reigns in casual, fancy and technical weights, with innovative structures creating weightless air trapping volumes and ethereal undulating forms.
Dry touch: the season’s most important ultra-dry and crisp handles are seen across natural as well as synthetic blends, shedding last season’s rustic volumes, and creating lighter, more refined updates for smart, relaxed and casual categories.
Sophisticated synthetics: new developments in sustainable fabrics see increasingly sophisticated cellulosic blends, such as Lyocell and cupro join the silkies varieties, matching traditional luxury for plush handles and buttery fluidity.
Pattern power: bold, energetic patterns translate summer staples such as botanical flora and tribal geometrics with new contemporary and youthful vigor. Woven checks follow suit in sun-drenched oversized layouts.
Saltwash: casual shirting and separates adopt weathered looks through saltwater finishes, capturing the spirit of the Kinship traveler.
Abstract patterns and textures inject an exotic flavor into casual, fancy as well as outerwear and technical qualities. Flora and fauna jacquards are distorted with patina-like overprints, while multilayered dapples are stylised into new versions of camouflage.
Weatherproof fabrics are understated and sophisticated with a crisp and brittle handle. Nano-weight nylons, polyamide, and polyester are blended with fine viscose and cotton fibers for a papery finish, adding subtlety to functional qualities. Microwave textures such as crepe and twill absorb neutral and candy pastel shades into matte, powdery surfaces with a wide commercial appeal.
Silky weights are represented in a wider range than ever, as traditional silk and premium polyester blends are joined by more sustainable cellulosic compositions. Increasingly sophisticated cupro, Lyocell and viscose qualities appeal with a peached handle, fluidity and buttery sheen. Pearlescent oyster shell, blush, and seafoam shades make up an elegant palette for casual and formal wear.
An overriding message of delicacy and lightness is captured with diaphanous volumes across a multitude of fabric categories, from fancy to technical. Airy dimensions are constructed with puckered organzas and oversized seersuckers. Captivating undulating forms occur with sheer double-cloth cloqués, while pearlescent and metallic Lurex inclusions weave in ephemeral shimmer.
Woven shirting and suiting are treated to a laundered look with a saltwater wash, refreshing summer cotton, linen and worsted wool bases with a nonchalant casual character. Faded chambray twills and canvases, as well as stripes, appear worn-in and distressed with space-dyed yarns, while tonal checks appear acid-washed and sun-faded with ‘bleeding’ contours and aquarelle shading.
New airy constructions emerge, lifting traditional summer tweed densities with mesh-like leno structures, working well for sartorial suiting looks as well as feminine tailoring and separates varieties. Fine twisted linen, cotton, and polyester blends have a modest salt-and-pepper appearance, while extreme thick-and-thin bouclé and looped yarns mix patterns with generous texture to create interesting surfaces.
Shimmering metallics continue to add exuberance to F.I.S and occasionwear directions. Either intensely colored or casting copper or iron shades, surfaces are updated with texture and dimension for visual impact.
Technical fabrics gain sartorial seriousness, as the functional qualities are disguised under formal wear. Glen and windowpane checks translate traditional suiting looks in classic tonal greys onto smooth and lightweight nylon and polyester blends, while blue-grey chambray looks add a smart but nonchalant appearance to matte cotton, nylon and elastane compositions.
Woven shirting is drenched in vivid saturated tones, reflecting vibrant summer vibes for casual and relaxed categories. Clashing palettes are used in abundance on busy plaids and madras varieties, with space-dyed yarn sections and patchwork-like panels adding energetic chaos to the layouts. Natural cotton crinkle and seersucker textures elevate the casual handle for laidback appeal.
Ultra-dry handles reign supreme for F.I.S. For relaxed tailoring and casual separates, the natural handle of linens and cotton is accentuated with the crispness of high-twist acrylic, viscose, and polyester blends, playing into a natural look but without the raw rusticity of the previous season. Subtle surfaces feature barely there hatched chambray or micro basket structures in warm neutral hues.
Graceful sheers are elevated with delicate decorations, adding an ultra-feminine touch to translucent bases. Charming floral jacquards use fil coupé techniques to play with transparency contrasts on weightless organza. An ethereal mood is captured with effervescent Lurex and multicolored silk yarn wavelets, adding ephemeral shimmer and movement to floaty and shivery cotton, silk and nylon weights.
Tonal indigo patterns emulate Eastern craft direction, decorating casual shirting, separates and jacket fabrics with a traveler’s spirit. Folk-inspired micro tile jacquard patterns are diffused on hatched chambray grounds, while space-dyed yarns and extra-weft techniques replicate ikat geometrics. Double-sided cotton jacquards create quilted stitch-effects for a vintage kimono look.
Fancy fabrics are delivered with a sweet flavor, marking a return to a romantic dress code. Woven jacquards feature a medley of ditsy floral motifs, either loosely scattered stylised silhouettes or tightly gathered, recalling summer country fields. The Liberty-inspired signature and opulent Lurex grounds evoke a sense of tradition and heritage with a strong feminine direction, ideal for summer occasions.
Traditional suiting is updated with a relaxed, effortless character for S/S 18. Classic tartan, plaid and windowpane checks are faded into linen and worsted wool grounds with grainy chambray and mouliné yarn inconsistency, as well as micro dobby weave structures. Textured thick-and-thin yarns and seersucker textures maintain a lively but sophisticated look and focus on the season’s important dry handle.
Tribal spirit is refreshed with imaginative contemporary aplomb, making an impact in new interpretations. Oversized jacquard primitive geometrics are elevated with smooth grounds, Lurex and polyester sheen, as well as gossamer fil coupé techniques. Updated tweed qualities abandon extreme rusticity and display softer textures with silky tufted accents and voluminous floss bouclé.
Adopting a traveler’s spirit, striped unisex shirting and separates adopt weathered washes and textures. These textures are raised with nipped and bouclé yarns and exaggerated stitch structures for a handspun feel. Space-dyed yarns add to the weathered character in the chromatic blue and white palette featuring saltwater washes.
Traces of disheveled imperfection are seen on casual and evening qualities. Tonal eyelash yarns and tufted fil coupé add worn-out tactility to casual shirting and tweed updates. Suiting weights are distressed with shredded stripes, and jacquards feature eroded mark making. Smooth, satin bases and silk printed grounds are disrupted with engineered raised tufted swirls and elongated fringing.
Delicate qualities embody the season’s message of femininity with a vintage flair, adding a ladylike aesthetic to the summer wardrobe. Fine semi-sheer Chantilly lace is seen alongside more textured guipure and broderie anglaise, as well as featherlight wool-lace constructions, reminiscent of antique domestic crochet heirlooms, with heavy cream and blush tones adding an authentic character.